![]() ![]() This is easy to do as the engine tends to shift and rotate and it can be difficult to get it back in the exact orientation so that the engine mount goes back on like it was before it was removed. If so, it may not have been re-installed quite right. Your mechanic could remove the timing belt cover for a look see, should be able to tell one way or another if it is off a tad.Īnother possibility depends on whether the engine mount has to be removed to install the t-belt. When it goes over only one cam shaft pulley it is smooth sailing, very difficult to get it wrong, but over two, many more ways to get it off a tooth or two. If the configuration of the t-belt is that it goes over two camshaft pulleys, well it is very easy to get that wrong. As I said, I don’t know if either of these things applies to this model car on a timing belt job. Either of these things, done improperly would give you vibration. It’s also the case that some mounts have to be adjusted properly before they get their final torque-down. If one or more of your mounts were left loose, it wouldn’t be the first time that happened. I don’t know the timing belt service procedure on this car, but on many you actually have to dismount the front of the engine to one degree or another. (It would tell you something like the air/fuel mix is lean).Īn unplugged sensor should be an immediate code.Īnyway, I just have one thought to add. You can have all sorts of different levels of vacuum leak with no error codes, and even when you got one it wouldn’t tell you that you have a vacuum leak. There is a code that should get set if the timing was not set correctly, and it is the type that really should have triggered an engine light within a few hundred miles (I would actually think pretty much immediately). Unfortunately, OK4450’s point does have to be on the table as a possibility and checking compression would be a way to learn something of the condition of the valves. I too am somewhat curious as to whether or not they notice the vibration and, if so, what they have to say about it. Is there anything else that it could be or that I should ask my mechanic? I want to chalk this up to us imagining something, but we both have no doubt that there has been considerably more vibration at least when the car is idling since we picked it up after the timing belt change. I left the car with him to take a look at it, but he just called and said he couldn’t find anything wrong. He asked if the vibration was getting any better, since when the battery was unplugged it would take the computer awhile to relearn the correct idle, but we’ve driven it a few hundred miles and it hasn’t gotten any better. I brought the car back to the mechanic today to see if it he could fix it, and he said that the CEL would be on if it was a vacuum leak or unplugged sensor, and that the car has an automatic idle that the belt change would not have adjusted. I asked my brother, who is a mechanic in another state, if he had any thoughts, and he said it could be that the belt is off a notch, a vacuum leak or an unplugged sensor. I haven’t noticed it until the car has warmed up. We can’t tell if it’s also rough during driving, or when the car is in park or neutral, but there is definitely considerably more vibration when the car is stopped in drive and idling–you can feel it throughout the car. After picking up the car, though, we noticed that the idle seemed much rougher than it had in the past. He changed the timing belt, drive belts, water pump, pulleys, tensioner and a few hoses, and everything seemed to go off without a hitch. Last week, we had the timing belt changed by a mechanic I’ve gone to for the past four years and trust a great deal. My wife and I recently bought a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 XT with an automatic transmission. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |